Hotel Luna
hotel

This wonderful budget option with 14 clean, large rooms attracts visitors of all types and ages. Watch a movie or chat with other guests in the pillowed Egyptian lounge area, complete with sheesha for those who want to try. Rooms are with or without bath and include continental or Egyptian breakfast. Right in the heart of downtown, with fifth-floor balconies overlooking lively Talaat Harb Street. Internet access and very friendly, helpful staff. 27 Talaat Harb St. 02-396-1020 $

Keylany Hotel
hotel

Expect great service and facilities at this well-run 4-storey, 30 room hotel. All rooms come with private bathroom, air-conditioning, and breakfast of crepes and fresh-squeezed lemon juice served on the beautiful rooftop terrace which overlooks the town and mosque towers. On a quiet road right off the main bazaar and only one street away from the Nile's waterfront restaurants and promenade. Billiards lounge and adjacent internet cafe. 25 Keylany St. 097-231-7322 $

Everest Hotel
hotel

At the time of our visit, the Everest was disheveled and dingy as it was under major renovations, including putting in new beds and cable tv. Hopefully by the time you visit, the 20 rooms and rooftop terrace will be renewed at this long-standing, reputable budget hotel. Rooms include breakfast, have fan or a/c, and most have private bath. Professionally run by owner Hassaan, who organizes all kinds of tours. Sharia Nozha, off Television St. 09-537-3260 $

Nour el-Qurna
hotel

Book ahead to stay at this special, ambient hotel on the west bank. Owner Mahamad has created a lovely retreat with local materials, European comforts and personable Egyptian service. The eight mud-brick rooms feature palm-constructed beds, colorful local curtains and rugs, plush duvets, fans, mosquito nets and tiled bathrooms. Delicious local meals served all day in the secluded palm garden out front. Across the road from the tourist police. 095-311-430 / 010-129-5812 $