Rio
de Janeiro: Sand, Skin, Soccer, Sugar Loaf
For
days on end, we sit at plastic tables belonging to the beach huts, drinking
caipirinha cocktails and watching all the action on famous Copacabana
Beach. Shiny black and bronze bodies fill the beach and mosaic
beach boulevard, riding bicycles, running, sunbaking, swimming, sipping
from coconuts, flexing near the makeshift beach gyms, volleying balls with
knees, feet, shoulders and heads, or playing a match of the beloved soccer.
Beach vendors cruise the sand selling cold beers, hot tea, shrimp skewers,
watermelon, grilled sticks of cheese, fresh oysters, ice cream and more,
ensuring that beach goers rarely need to leave their towels. Rented chairs
and umbrellas create a colorful pattern in front of the concrete skyscrapers
that dominate the skyline, then give way to jungly hills that stretch back
from the sea. The uniform for Cariocas, or Rio locals,
is simple: tiny triangle bikinis covering as little as possible for women,
and rectangular speedo-like shiny briefs for men. G-strings are a must for
women, whether you're trim, taut and terrific or fat and fabulous, and off
the beach, breasts must be pushed up high and proud, spilling out of your
tiny shirt. Skin is on display, soccer and beach going are the national
pastimes, sand stretches for kilometers and Sugar Loaf mountain towers over
the bay. This is
Rio de Janeiro.
We spent 5
nights in a large room at the APA Hotel in Copacabana,
just three blocks from the beach and surrounded by local restaurants and
juice bars, where we tried thick tropical juices called sucos. Of course,
Rio is a huge city with more to offer than beaches. There is the quiet
hillside area of Santa Teresa, where we spent a relaxing night at Casa
Aurea Guesthouse, and the lively Botafogo area, sandwiched between
beaches and city, where we hung out at Botafogo Easy Hostel.
There is the rich suburb of Sao Conrado, which we flew over on hang-gliders,
and the poor favela neighborhoods, which we visited on a favela tour.
Favela
tours are a great way to learn about a side of Rio that most
people, including Cariocas, never see. These shantytowns are slowly built
up from the rural poor who flock to Rio for work but ultimately can't
afford city life. Excluded from the amenities and order that govern the
city of Rio around them, favelas are run by highly organized drug gangs
and most Rio locals are terrified of entering the neighborhoods. But actually,
the favelas are the least likely place for a visitor to encounter trouble,
as the drug lords never want to attract attention of the police, who normally
steer clear of these neighborhoods. Ironic how we felt less worried about
our cameras and cash in a favela than in Copacabana! The locals were happy
to show us their handicrafts and schools, where sponsor groups are working
to better the lives of favela residents, and our guide, Christina, was
very enthusiastic about her job, eager to show us that favelas are not
terrifying and lawless ghettos, but inhabited by
people as decent as anywhere else.
But speaking
of terrifying, how about running off a mountain? That's
just what we did, running until our feet weren't touching the ground anymore,
but instead of plunging down the cliff, we soared into the air, arms out,
face down, just like Superman. The thin hang-glider strapped
to our back kept us circling and gliding on the wind while our 'pilots',
strapped in next to us, guided us over the jungle, high-rises and ocean
to land gently on the beach. The hang-gliders from Just Fly were
awesome guys and absolute pros, so our fears were quickly put at ease
and replaced by total exhilaration as we smiled for the camera strapped
to the glider.
We
also took a side trip from Rio, if you can call a 23 hour bus ride a side
trip. Most smart travelers visit Iguacu Falls on the
way from Buenos Aires to Rio, or vice versa, but we crazily journeyed
23 hours to the falls and 23 hours back, and thank god, it was worth it.
On the border of Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil, the Iguacu River plunges
over an 80 meter/240 ft. cliff and the sight of it is nothing short of
spectacular. On the Argentinean side, we were stunned by the Garganta
del Diablo, or Devil's Throat, where 14 separate falls combine to form
one massive waterfall, so powerful that the bottom of the falls are constantly
enshrouded in the mist and spray from the force. We spent hours in the
national park, where we took a jungle train and walked around the various
falls and cascades, sighting a group of raccoon-like animals called Coatimundis
along the path. Although
our stay in Iguacu was so short, we still found a great place for the
night at Hotel Baviera, which reflected some of the German
influence of the area and of the kind owner, Meno, then finally tried
Brazil's delicious national dish of feijoada at the Brazilian beer garden
across the street. A mix of beans, pork, beef, and sausage, the dish was
just another thing to add to the list of great Brazilian food. On our
long bus rides, we continued to sample food at the many kilograma restaurants,
where you are charged per 100 grams of food that you take from the huge
buffets. A great idea and very popular here in Brazil, you can try lots
of things and control how much you want to eat and spend. Brilliant!
Traveler
Tips:
**Portuguese pronunciation is very different than Spanish, so although
you may be able to get by with some Spanish language in Brazil, you'll
need to pick up some Portuguese if you're going to spend more time here.
English is not widely spoken on the street and it pays to learn common
foods and phrases in Portuguese.
|
|