Getting from Southern Patagonia to the Lake District is quite an adventure, as there are no roads in that part of Chile, only islands and fjords. We didn't have a booking on the four day ferry boat that makes the journey, so we traveled by bus up through Argentina and back into Chile. We are happy to say that Chile is one country where a 34 hour bus ride is pretty enjoyable! The buses have cushy seats that recline very far, a toilet on board, a bus attendant to serve you snacks and fold the blankets, and video entertainment. We watched four Hollywood movies and watched the scenery outside change from flat desert lands to forests and lakes. Take it from us, though, bring some of your own food, but make sure to eat it all before you cross the strict border back into Chile!

Our first destination in the Lakes District was Puerto Montt, a busy city and jumping off point for nearby holiday towns. We enjoyed the handicraft markets that line the main road on the water, leading down to the fish market where we could try the famous local dish of Curanto, a steaming mix of shellfish with chicken and sausage. Along with seafood, the Lakes District features cheeses and honey, fresh from the dairy cow and honey bee farms that fill the area. We spent most of our time in Puerto Montt at Hospedaje Rocco, where Veronica serves her house guests real coffee in her huge kitchen and sofa-filled living room. We played with her poodles and enjoyed talking to her and her niece, Ana Maria.

Twenty minutes from Puerto Montt, we found the City of Roses, Puerto Varas. The main city on Llanquihue Lake, Puerto Varas resembles an alpine mountain town, with it's large German church and log cabin shops set on the lake looking out to the Osorno Volcano. Settled by Germans seven generations ago, the area around the lake is a wonderful mix of Chilean culture with German influence. We spent the week with newest major sponsor, AquaMotion, a tour company based in Puerto Varas who offer an extremely large variety of excursions around the Lake District and all of Chile. We rode horses through ranchlands and native forest, trekked to Las Cascadas waterfall, rafted on the Petrohue River rapids, toured Chile's finest meat producing facility, visited Petrohue Falls, braved the canopy where we flew two kilometers over a canyon harnessed to a cable, drove up the slope of Osorno Volcano and then flew over the volcano in a helicopter. German-born Matthias, the creator and owner of AquaMotion, runs an incredibly organized and service-oriented company and is well connected in the community. Our guides were multi-lingual and highly informative, and Matthias himself often went out to personally check on his tours. There are several tour companies in the area, but if you want the best organization, service and variety, make AquaMotion your home base in Puerto Varas. We were highly impressed and had an incredible week! (see ATTRACTIONS page for more detail)

We had a great time staying in several towns and ranches off the country road that circles Llanquihue Lake. In Puerto Varas, we enjoyed a quiet night at Casa Azul, an all wood cabin with softly lit reading and dining areas, hammocks in the garden and hot muesli for breakfast. Just 25 kilometers from Puerto Varas, we came to the beautiful ranch and bed and breakfast of Quinta del Lago where Rod and Barbara welcomed us into a suite in their large ranch home decorated with a mix of natural local materials and Barbara's interior design skills. After a huge lamb dinner, we spent a fun evening upstairs in the karaoke and game room, then enjoyed the morning on the property with the alpacas, sheep, horses, gardens, and lakeside views of Osorno Volcano. Another evening, we stayed on a farm on the other side of the lake at Zapato Amarillo outside of Puerto Octay. Nadia and Armin love cooking and made a gourmet dinner for all the guests, as they do every night. We met several other travelers there, as the Zapato Amarillo attracts adventurous budget travelers who want to enjoy some comfort in the natural surrounds and seclusion of Nadia and Armin's farm.

Each place we stayed gave us an authentic experience of life in the rural surrounds. Living in towns, ranches and farms that look toward Osorno and Calbuco Volcano and the Andes from the rolling hills around Llanquihue Lake. In Chile, the places where you stay are a huge part of the Chilean experience, connecting you to the people and the culture.

Traveler's Tips:
**If you prefer to skip the 34 hour bus ride and want to take the ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, make sure to book a week in advance.