Road
Trip Around the Republic
Well,
yes, to answer your most obvious first question, Ireland really IS
as beautiful as you've imagined. On our short road trip around the
southern part of the country, we saw so many amazing landscapes, that
we can't wait to come back and see more of the Emerald Isle. Being
such a small country, it is easy to see a lot even if you only have
a few days, so we made the most of it, covering almost 1300
km in four days. A lot of driving, some might say, but the
narrow, winding country roads hypnotized us and the anticipation of
each new village, coast and castle beckoned us to keep exploring!
From
Dublin, we cut west across the country to Galway,
a lively and charming city where we strolled along the river and
found a beer garden to enjoy a pint. The weather was so much better
than we had expected, not very cold for late October, and plenty
of sun and clear skies to give reprieve from Ireland's notorious
rain. Driving west of Galway, we toured part of the Connemara
area, which awed us with it's eccentric beauty - an unusual mix
of perfect pastures, unruly bog wilderness, rolling mountains, dense
pine forests and inshore lakes - all largely uninhabited. We loved
the low stone walls that seem to zigzag across the entire country,
and came upon the first of many cemeteries that we'd see in Ireland,
a common yet fantastic sight of ornately carved stone Celtic crosses.
After
arriving in Doolin, County Clare, in the darkness
the night before, it was a treat to wake up and see cows grazing
in bright green fields along the sea, right from the window of our
lovely B&B, Glasha Meadows. It was the start
of an amazing day driving around County Clare and it was also Bex's
29th birthday. Well, what an awesome birthday it was. Just 4 kms
from Doolin, we came to the Cliffs of Moher, a
incredible spot where 600 ft high cliffs seem to have folded up
along the ocean. Half the fun of being there was trying to walk
into the incredibly strong winds, which were up to a 'Gale 8', according
to the locals. Our drive then took us through the Burren
region - where lush farmlands contrast with crusty limestone and
shale plateau - and along the coast to watch giant waves crash into
the shore. Then on to our second night of traditional Irish music
at McDermott's pub back in Doolin. The bartender Fintan welcomed
us back, the band sang to Bex for her birthday, and three Irish
country boys, Declan, Mihol and Neil, provided us with great 'craic'
(good conversation, good times, fun) all night.
On
day three we drove a lot, really too much, but it was so worth it
to see the Dingle Peninsula. We made a beeline
for County Kerry, our trip made easier by a car
ferry that connects the two counties, and by lunchtime we were on
the peninsula. The scenic high road over the spectacular mountains
took us through Conor's Pass, where a one-lane road leads up to
an incredible panoramic view. The scenery only got better as we
hugged the peninsula's south coast cliffs and beaches all the way
to the point at Slea Head. Words can hardly describe the extraordinary
beauty of this area, so please view the photo slideshow, though
they, too, can only begin to show the contemplative, mystical atmosphere.
Though we could have stayed there for days, we were happy to continue
on to County Cork that night to rest our weary heads at the cozy
White Lodge B&B in Farran Village.
Until
now, we had been blessed with quite lovely weather, so it was only
fair that we finally got a real Irish heavy-downpour-wind-blown-sideways-rain
kind of day. No worries, we just did most of our sightseeing from
the comfort of our car. In only 10 minutes we were in Cork
city, where Gothic church spires towered over the charming and lively
island city, surrounded by the River Lee. But our main destination
for the day was Kilkenny, not only to see Ireland's
finest medieval city, but also to drink Brad's favorite Irish beer...Kilkenny!
The creamy beer was heaven-sent, and the medieval alleyways, cathedrals
and castles were fantastic - the perfect end to our trip before
driving back to Dublin.
Traveler
Tips:
** SURFING: Yes, there is surf in Ireland! Not much of a crowd in
the water as well... it's damn cold, but the coast near Doolin as
well as the Dingle Peninsula had plenty of potential. It's just
a matter of being in the place with the right winds and swell at
the right time. Click
here to get more information about Ireland surf.
** IRISH
BEER: If you are looking forward to coming to Ireland to drink your
favourite Irish beers, think again! Most of our favorites, such
as Kilkenny, Caffreys, and Wexford are pretty much just export beers,
though you can find Kilkenny in Kilkenny town. Funnily enough though,
most pubs will have Budweiser, Carlsberg and Fosters! Of course,
Guinness is everywhere and it DOES taste better in Ireland.
** RENTAL
CARS: Ireland really has to be toured by car to be fully enjoyed.
There are plenty of car rental companies, but at the time, the cheapest
inclusive price that we found was with Europcar.com.
Check with your credit card company to see if car rental insurance
is included when used for payment.
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